Lake Tanganyika
Contents
Contents
Description
Translation: Vessel full of fish.
Countries: Tanzania, Burundi, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Zambia
Altitude: 773 m
Dimensions: 676×72 km
Area: 32,900 km²
Volume: 18,900 km³
Shoreline length: 1,828 km
Maximum depth: 1,470 m
Average depth: 570 m
Transparency: up to 30 m
Catchment area: 231,000 km²
Inflowing rivers: Ruzizi, Malagarasi
Outflowing river: Lukuga
Age: 12 million years
Settlements: Kigoma, Tanzania; Kalemie, Democratic Republic of the Congo; Bujumbura, Burundi
Coordinates: 53.798517°, 99.185847° | N53.798517°, E99.185847° | 53°47.91'N, 99°11.15'E | 53°47'54.6612"N, 99°11'9.0492"E | Latitude: 53.798517 N, Longitude: 99.185847 E
It is connected to the major African river — the Congo, but fish do not migrate into it. The water transparency is explained by high mineralization and low oxygen content. Complete absence of roads. Poverty of the population. In terms of dissolved mineral content, the lake ranks 1st after lakes such as Victoria and Malawi. Most of the dissolved minerals are carbonates, the rest are magnesium and calcium salts. The salinity of the lake is about 0.4 grams per liter. This lake is very different from other African lakes.
- Geographic coordinates: 3°25' - 8°45' South latitude, 29°10' - 31°10' East longitude
- Lake Tanganyika is located in the deepest tectonic depression of Africa, at an altitude of 773 meters above sea level and is currently part of the ancient East African Rift system. An underwater sill divides the lake into two deep basins.
- The lake extends from north to south for 676 kilometers and is the longest lake in the world.
- The total length of the lake's coastline is approximately 1,900 kilometers; the width in some places reaches 64 kilometers.
- The total area of Lake Tanganyika is about 34,000 sq. km. The basin area of Lake Tanganyika is 244,500 sq. kilometers.
- Being the deepest lake of the African continent (the maximum depth of the lake in its southern part is 1,470 meters). In terms of depth, Tanganyika ranks second in the world and is slightly inferior to Lake Baikal.
- The average depth of Africa's largest freshwater reservoir is about 572 meters.
- The lake water has an average surface temperature of 25°C. Seasonal fluctuations of surface T: 22°C - 29°C, and pH averages about 8.4. The water is fresh but with elevated magnesium salt content. Total hardness (dGH) in different parts of the lake and according to various sources ranges from 12 to 19 degrees.
- Lake Tanganyika is located on the territory of four countries: Congo, Zambia, Tanzania, and Burundi. Each country has its own territorial waters on the lake.
Water parameters
- Water parameters necessary for the habitation of fish and plants and methods of changing them. Hydrochemical composition of water, gas content, and the nitrogen cycle in the aquarium.
Water is the basis of life for all living beings, but for fish, it is also their habitat.
Almost every region of the planet has a unique aquatic system, be it the Amazon River basin or a small lake in the Siberian taiga, which is characterized by certain fish species adapted to live in that ecosystem. Therefore, if a fish from one habitat is placed in another, it may die within a few days or even hours.
However, this is not only due to new climatic conditions, since this can happen even if the habitats are identical, for example, swampy backwaters located only a few kilometers apart. The main reason is different water parameters.
The chemical formula of water is H2O, but in nature it does not occur in this form. Various dissolved substances are always present in water, and for each region, the set of these substances is different, which affects water parameters. Since aquarium fish come from the most diverse corners of the planet, it is necessary to provide them with suitable conditions, and first of all, this concerns water.
For successful fish keeping, it is necessary to know the following water parameters and methods of changing them:
Hydrochemical composition
Determination and change of dGH and pH parameters
Gas content
Oxidizability or Redox potential
Nitrogen cycle
Tanganyika. Temperature: 24—27 °C
- TEMPERATURE is the most important factor affecting physical, chemical, biochemical, and biological processes occurring in a water body (aquarium), which largely determines the oxygen regime and the intensity of self-purification processes. Temperature values are used to calculate the degree of oxygen saturation of water, various forms of alkalinity, the state of the carbonate-calcium system, and in many hydrochemical and hydrobiological studies. When keeping Lake Tanganyika cichlids, the T should be maintained at 24-27 °C. Higher T readings are unacceptable (especially prolonged). Standard room temperature is sufficient for maintaining a Tanganyika aquarium.
Average annual water temperature of Lake Tanganyika:Month | Temp., °C | Precipitation, mm
January | 23.4 | 94
February | 23.1 | 109
March | 23.3 | 121
April | 23.4 | 125
May | 23.3 | 57
June | 23 | 11
July | 22.9 | 5
August | 23.9 | 11
September | 24.8 | 37
October | 24.7 | 64
November | 23 | 100
December | 23.5 | 114
Tanganyika. pH: 7.5—8.8
- ACTIVE REACTION OF WATER or pH. The content of hydrogen ions in water. Acidity or pH is a concept that determines the neutral, hard, or acidic reaction of water in the presence of a certain amount of hydrogen ions. It allows determining whether the water is acidic or alkaline.
Water molecules are dissociated into hydroxyl (OH-) and hydrogen (H+) ions. In pure (chemically speaking) water at 25°C, the molar concentration of these ions is always equal and amounts to 7~10 g*ion/l. This is a neutral reaction of water. The concentration of hydrogen ions has different values, and therefore it is divided into several orders. This concentration is expressed by the pH value, which is the decimal logarithm taken with the opposite sign. The expression has the following form: (H+)=10-pH, pH= - lg(H+).
If acids are present in water (in this case, it is not chemically pure), the number of hydrogen ions increases, making the water acidic and its pH lower. In alkaline water, the opposite is true — more hydroxyl ions, and the pH increases. In practice, it is easier to determine the concentration of hydrogen ions, and this is sufficient to have an idea of the acidity of the water in the aquarium. The level of hydrogen ions is strongly influenced by hardness and the amount of carbon dioxide dissolved in the water. In the aquarium, these water parameters change constantly, even over 24 hours.
Tanganyika. Carbonate hardness GH: 15—30; KH (dKH): 5—15
- CARBONATE HARDNESS. Water hardness is a property of natural water that depends mainly on the presence of dissolved calcium and magnesium salts. The total content of these salts is called total hardness. Total hardness is divided into carbonate hardness, determined by the concentration of calcium and magnesium bicarbonates (and carbonates at pH 8.3), and non-carbonate hardness — the concentration of calcium and magnesium salts of strong acids. The results of hardness determination are usually expressed in German degrees GH and KH. In natural conditions, calcium, magnesium, and other alkaline earth metal ions that cause hardness enter the water as a result of the interaction of dissolved carbon dioxide with carbonate minerals and other processes of dissolution and chemical weathering of rocks. Water hardness varies widely. Hardness caused by calcium ions (up to 70%) usually predominates; however, in some cases, magnesium hardness can reach 50-60%. In Tanganyika, magnesium hardness predominates, so some breeders practice adding magnesium sulfate to the water. For all cichlids of the lake, the following indicators can be considered acceptable: GH — from 15-30 KH — 5-15.
Also, the relationship between pH and carbonate hardness is very important, as the carbon dioxide content in the water depends on this relationship. Fish release carbon dioxide during respiration. It dissolves well in water, and if too much accumulates (a concentration of 30 mg/l is considered dangerous, and for sensitive species, this threshold is at least twice as low) — the fish will get sick. The pH will become too low for the KH of this aquarium water. The "correct" pH values, calculated in accordance with the carbonate hardness of the water, are presented in the table here. In addition, the carbon dioxide content in aquarium water can be calculated from pH and KH values using a special calculator. These values are valid for clean water without peat extracts, products like "Toru-min," and buffer reagents (pH+ and pH- products). If the pH in your aquarium is maintained for a long time at a level lower than that shown in the table, the likelihood of fish death from chronic carbon dioxide poisoning will sharply increase. Low pH indicates too high a carbon dioxide concentration. For example, if KH=2 and pH=6.3 or higher (fourth column from the left edge of the table), there is no cause for concern — the carbon dioxide concentration in the water does not reach dangerous levels. But if at KH=2, the pH is less than 6.3 (say 5.9), urgent measures should be taken.
Carbonate hardness KH 0.5 1 2 3 4 5 6—7 8—9 10—11 12—15 mg-eq/l 0.18 0.36 0.71 1.07 1.43 1.78 2.14—2.5 2.85—3.21 3.57—3.92 4.28—5.35 min pH for fish 5.8 6.1 6.3 6.5 6.7 6.8 6.8—6.9 7.0 7.1 7.1—7.2 max pH for plants 6.4 6.7 7 7.1 7.3 7.4 7.4—7.5 7.6 7.6—7.7 7.7—7.8 Natural pH 6.9 7.1 7.4 7.6 7.7 7.8 7.9 8 8.2 8.3—8.5
Water hardness level
Water hardness units
Degrees
mg-eq/l
Very soft
0—4
0—1.5
Soft
4—8
1.5—3.0
Moderately hard
8—12
3.0—4.0
Fairly hard
12—18
4.0—6.5
Hard
18—30
6.5—11.0
Very hard
Over 30
Over 11
Tanganyika. Oxygen (O2) mg/dm3 (mg/l): minimum 5
- OXIDIZABILITY. Dissolved oxygen. Allows judging the amount of organic substances in water, primarily fish excrement and uneaten food, as well as their decomposition products. The higher the oxidizability, the less oxygen in the water.
Dissolved oxygen is present in natural water in the form of O2 molecules. Its content in water is influenced by two groups of oppositely directed processes: some increase the oxygen concentration, others decrease it. The first group of processes enriching water with oxygen includes: the process of oxygen absorption from the atmosphere; the release of oxygen by aquatic vegetation during photosynthesis; and entry into water bodies with rain and snow waters, which are usually supersaturated with oxygen. Absorption of oxygen from the atmosphere occurs on the surface of the water body. The rate of this process increases with decreasing temperature, increasing pressure, and decreasing mineralization. Aeration — the enrichment of deep water layers with oxygen — occurs as a result of mixing water masses, including circulation, etc. Photosynthetic oxygen release occurs during the assimilation of carbon dioxide by aquatic vegetation (plants and phytoplankton). The rate of oxygen consumption increases with increasing temperature, the number of bacteria and other aquatic organisms, and substances subject to chemical and biochemical oxidation. The oxygen concentration determines the value of the redox potential and largely determines the direction and rate of chemical and biochemical oxidation of organic and inorganic compounds. The oxygen regime has a profound effect on the life of the aquarium. The minimum content of dissolved oxygen ensuring normal fish development is about 5 mg/dm3. Providing your inhabitants with oxygen for respiration can be done using compressors or by installing the filter outlet "flute" above the water surface. Measuring oxygen concentration is also possible, but this is usually rarely necessary; as a rule, following the above recommendations will give you the necessary water parameters and your fish will feel comfortable.
Tanganyika. Ammonium, Ammonia (NH4, NH3): 0 mg/l
- During their life activities, fish release ammonia into the water. In addition, its concentration in tap water can be dangerously high, especially in autumn and spring. Ammonia in water exists mainly in the form of the ammonium ion.
If high concentrations of ammonia (0.5 mg/l or more) are detected, it is worth replacing part of the water, installing more powerful filtering devices (mainly increasing the volume of filter media), and adding water conditioning products that enrich the water with bacteria that oxidize ammonia. In addition, it would be useful to increase water aeration. A reason to once again measure the ammonia content in the water is darkening of the fish's coloration, decreased appetite, "burning" of fins, etc.
Tanganyika. NO2 (nitrites): 0 mg/l; NO3 (nitrates): 10—30 mg/l
- Fish release ammonia into the water, which is converted into nitrites by special bacteria living in the substrate and filter media. These latter are particularly toxic and must be quickly processed by bacteria into relatively harmless nitrates.
Fish release ammonia into the water, which is converted into nitrites by special bacteria living in the substrate and filter media. These latter are particularly toxic and must be quickly processed by bacteria into relatively harmless nitrates. The processes of biogenic nitrogen processing are called nitrification. Fish in the aquarium will feel well only if nitrification proceeds quickly, meaning there are enough nitrifying bacteria and they feel good (water is not too acidic, optimal pH 6.8 - 7.8). In hygiene aquariums, from which aquarium fish are usually sold, there is usually no substrate. This is why there should be a lot of filter media in the filter; otherwise, the beneficial bacteria simply have nowhere to live, and the fish will chronically suffer from ammonia and nitrite poisoning. Small pumps with a small filter cup, even if their performance formally corresponds to the volume of your trade aquariums, are not suitable for them. We will soon tell you how to organize proper water filtration in trade aquariums in the "Secret Materials."
But let's return to our nitrites. Tests for their determination are no longer a rarity. It is worth using them yourself, and it is certainly worth selling them. Probably the cheapest are the Czech ones from Karel Rataj. A very simple and convenient nitrite test is offered by "Sera."
The concentration of nitrites in the aquarium should not exceed 0.2 mg/l. Signs of nitrite poisoning are darkening of the fish's coloration and changes in their behavior. Fish lose their appetite and stand motionless in the corners of the aquarium (often with their noses in the corner), fins are clamped, and the body is slightly slimy. Dead fish have dark, brownish gills. If these symptoms are detected, it is worth testing the water for nitrites, and if they are found, take measures. In case of fish poisoning by nitrites, the aquarium water cannot be changed abruptly! No more than 1/4 of the water volume can be changed at a time. After that, add "Nitrivek" or a similar product (a culture of bacteria that oxidize nitrites) to the water. It is also good to add a little conditioner to the water. The next water change can be done after about 5-6 hours. Water will need to be changed until the nitrite concentration drops to a safe level. Bacterial cultures no longer need to be added during subsequent changes, but conditioner can be. Other methods of treating fish from nitrate poisoning will be described later in the amateur section of "LIVING WATER."
Nitrates are relatively safe. Practice shows that levels above 80 - 100 mg/l should not be exceeded. Fish get used to living at higher concentrations, but grow worse and tolerate being moved to other water poorly. Accordingly, not every fish will "enter" this water either. A level below 30 mg/l is safe even for botias and discus — fish particularly demanding of water quality.
If the aquarium is working correctly, the nitrate level in it between water changes increases slightly, and the water itself acidifies slightly (this can only be noticed at relatively high fish stocking densities, or with rare water changes — no more than once every 10 days). Nitrite and ammonia levels should not rise. If you cannot achieve this, the reasons may be the following:
1. The water in the aquariums is initially too acidic (pH less than 6.3). Find out the reasons, and if the water is simply too soft, put limestone in the aquarium, or use soda. (See above, the pH section).
2. A culture of nitrifying bacteria has not been introduced into the aquarium. It must be introduced.
3. Nitrifying bacteria have nowhere to live. There is no substrate, and there is little filter media in the filter. In this case, it is worth installing another filter, or replacing the existing one with a larger one, the flow rate can be limited so that the fish are not "tossed" by excessive current in the aquarium.
Tanganyika. Chlorine (Cl)
- The presence of chlorine and its compounds in water causes severe poisoning in aquarium inhabitants, which can be classified as a non-contagious disease of aquarium fish. Chlorine is added at city water treatment stations — as a disinfectant.
In spring and autumn, the dose of chlorine added is increased. In the first case, due to floods; in the second case, due to heavy rains and the potential danger of drinking water contamination. Depending on the region and situation, different types of this substance toxic to fish are used: hypochlorous acid, gaseous chlorine, and chlorine dioxide. As a result, either hydrochloric acid or hypochlorous acid is formed in tap water.
It gets even more interesting. The above-mentioned chemical compounds are real poison for all living things. They decompose quickly in light (especially sunlight), but the sun does not look inside the water pipes. First of all, chlorine-containing acids must destroy pathogenic organisms, so the caring employees of the water utility add so much chlorine to the water that it often reaches apartments and houses in free form. Careless aquarists pour tap water directly into the aquarium, and acids are formed there. They have a strong oxidizing ability, so they literally burn the gills of fish and the protective mucus of their skin.
Symptoms of chlorine poisoning in aquarium fish
Signs of chlorine poisoning can be seen almost immediately after pouring un-settled tap water. The aquarium inhabitants show vivid symptoms of fish disease: they become pale, dart about, have difficulty breathing, and rise to the surface. They try to jump out to leave the toxic environment. If too much chlorine has entered the aquarium, the fish, on the contrary, lose mobility and die.
All this happens due to the oxidizing effect of chlorine-containing water. The blood is damaged. The gill filaments become covered with mucus and become discolored. Then mucus forms over the entire body of the fish. Even a negligible chlorine concentration of 0.001 mg/l causes a violation of behavioral reactions. An increase in chlorine concentration (0.05-0.1 mg/l) is especially dangerous for fry and fish larvae. While such chlorine content is harmless to adult fish for a long time, juveniles die within a few hours. Therefore, water parameters must be carefully monitored when breeding aquarium fish. A chlorine content of 0.03-0.05 mg/l leads to the death of eggs during the incubation period. It should be noted that tap water can contain a completely lethal amount of chlorine for fish: up to 3 milligrams per liter. Of course, this fact cannot simply be ignored.
Ways to get rid of chlorine in tap water
For any self-respecting aquarist, knowing ways to get rid of the harmful chemical element is the ABC. Let us list the most popular and simple ones, but first, let us clarify: the most pleasant property of chlorine is that it evaporates quickly. With small water changes, any aquarium water filter will cope with the poison and poisoning will not occur. But remember: forewarned is forearmed. Moreover, some species of African Lake Tanganyika cichlids can die just a few seconds after being in chlorinated water. Therefore:
1. It is better to play it safe and let the water settle. Preferably in an enamel or glass container with a sufficiently large water surface so that the chlorine escapes as quickly as possible. In just 1-2 days (depending on the surface area in contact with atmospheric air), the water will become suitable for fish.
2. If you need to purify the water quickly, it is better to heat it to 90°C for about 30-40 minutes.
3. Another way is active aeration, because the more actively the water moves, bubbles, and fountains, the faster it gets rid of chlorine.
4. The fourth way: the use of special aquarium chemicals. For example, AquaSafe is considered the most popular in this regard and is used at a dosage of 5 ml per 10 liters of aquarium water. There are also American preparations: Tap Water (1 teaspoon or 5 ml per 40 liters of aquarium water will neutralize chlorine at a concentration of 4 mg/l, and chloramine at a concentration of 2 mg/l) and API Stress Coat (2 teaspoons or 10 ml per 40 liters of aquarium water, and half the dose will restore the mucous coat of fish destroyed by chlorine). Sera Aquatan is also one of the most affordable and effective remedies. Used in the amount of 1 ml or 22 drops per 20 liters of aquarium water. All such products contain a dechlorinator: sodium thiosulfate, which reacts with dissolved chlorine and reduces it to chloride ions (which in turn evaporate with evaporation). At the same time, one should not forget that any instructions for aquarium chemicals contain average recommendations; they have to be slightly adjusted depending on the season and the degree of saturation of tap water with chlorine in a given particular region.
5. A very reliable method is filtration through activated carbon. In the latter case, you are guaranteed to get rid of not only free chlorine but also burning hypochlorous acid. And this is done using modern household filters like Aquaphor.
Tanganyika. Carbon dioxide (CO2)
- In the gas regime of the aquarium, carbon dioxide (CO2) plays an important role. In water, it can exist in three states: free, semi-bound (bicarbonates), and bound (carbonates). Carbon dioxide accumulates in dangerous concentrations in aquariums with poor lighting, with overpopulation of fish and aquatic organisms, with a large amount of rotting organic substances — leftover fish food, dead plant parts, dead aquatic organisms.
In the water we pour from the tap, carbon dioxide is present in a negligible amount. But in the aquarium, various biochemical processes continuously occur, causing CO2 to accumulate or be consumed. Moreover, it is constantly in an inseparable connection with the pH level and carbonate hardness. By completely removing it from aquarium water, we will increase the pH. Conversely: an increase in carbon dioxide concentration leads to a drop in pH. In turn, the concentration of carbon dioxide depends on the water temperature and its hardness. As temperature rises, the amount of carbon dioxide decreases. But the softer the water, the more gas. A slightly complex mechanism, but it is worth understanding for the sake of your aquarium's well-being.
All living organisms breathe, i.e., absorb oxygen and release carbon dioxide. Creatures from the animal kingdom — including any species of aquarium fish — are only harmed by CO2, while plants use it as a nutrient during photosynthesis. From the school botany course, many remember that photosynthesis is possible only in light. At night, when the lighting is turned off, it stops, which is why the greatest amount of carbon dioxide in the aquarium accumulates closer to the morning.
Carbon dioxide in aquarium water — harm or benefit?
A high concentration of carbon dioxide in water causes intoxication in fish, and a CO2 content of 28-30 mg/l can lead to death. Intoxication is accompanied by general anxiety of the fish, as well as impaired coordination of movement and rapid breathing. And these are only the first symptoms of aquarium fish disease. Then they begin to swim belly up or on their side, and soon death occurs. Autopsy of fish that died from carbon dioxide shows that the gills are tightly pressed to the body.
At the same time, CO2 is considered an excellent "supplement" for aquariums with many plants (example: Dutch planted tank). Inexperienced aquarists recklessly experiment by supplying the most ordinary aquarium with a CO2 system. Thus saturating the water with carbon dioxide. However, most plants are more or less unpretentious and therefore adapt perfectly to various keeping conditions. First of all, they need proper lighting, adequate nutrition, and optimal temperature. Everything else is secondary, including CO2. As an option, you can try starting with hard-water plants; they know how to use carbon dioxide from carbonate hardness. These are Vallisneria, Elodea, Echinodorus, Sagittaria, Anubias, etc. And when you have accumulated enough experience in caring for aquarium plants, then look at more capricious species that may indeed need additional CO2 supply.
Conclusion
From all of the above, it is clear that carbon dioxide is extremely important for the stability and well-being of the aquarium. It can be used as a tool for pH control. And of course, it is extremely important for the healthy growth of aquarium plants. At the same time, active growth of aquarium plants is a contribution to the fight against brown algae. The optimal CO2 level is from 10 to 30 parts per million (see table above). A higher figure is fatal for fish and other aquatic organisms.
To prevent an increase in carbon dioxide concentration, it is necessary to follow some rules. First, do not allow uneaten food residues to accumulate. Second, the lighting should be bright enough and long enough (but the aquarium should not be placed in direct sunlight, as this accelerates plant photosynthesis and consequently lowers the pH). Third, do not overpopulate the aquarium with mollusks, fish, and other living organisms. And finally, you need to plant a sufficient amount of vegetation.
To determine the CO2 level in aquarium water, there is a simple device for constant testing — a drop checker. With carbonate hardness up to 80, one glance at the color of the indicator liquid is enough to know the approximate amount of carbon dioxide: green — normal, blue — deficiency, yellow — excess. With other carbonate hardness, the shades will be slightly different, but in the same color range.
Tanganyika. Salts (g/l): 0.4
Na2CO3 anhydrous --------------- 125
KCl ----------------------------- 59
KNO3 --------------------------- 0.5
Li2CO3 --------------------------- 4
CaCO3 --------------------------- 30
MgCO3 -------------------------- 144
Al2(SO4)3.18H2O ------------------ 5
K2SO4 ---------------------------- 4
Na2SO4 --------------------------- 1
FeCl3.6H2O --------------------- 0.5
Na3PO4.12H2O-------------------- 0.4
Na2SiO3 ----------------------- 13.5
Tanganyika. Metals
Fish poisoning by metals and heavy metals
The most common metals that cause poisoning of aquarium fish are iron and copper. They enter the water supply in the form of salts of these metals from natural water sources: artesian wells, lakes, and rivers from which water is drawn. In aquarium water, one can also detect heavy metals — selenium, cadmium, lead, chromium, which are contained in coloring pigments, plastic heat stabilizers, and other chemical industry products.
Where do metals come from in the aquarium?- The concentration of metals is higher in soft and acidic water. In it, calcium carbonate does not precipitate as sediment, which acts as a barrier between metals and water. Because of this, metal salts coming from the water supply react with water without hindrance;
- From water pipes (galvanized or steel coated with a layer of copper);
- Metal frames of aquariums with marine (or acidic) water and metal lids that constantly, one way or another, come into contact with water are also a source of metals entering it;
- From metal-containing medicines for fish. For example, anti-ectoparasite preparations contain copper sulfate;
- From stones used for aquarium decoration that contain metals;
- From plant weights, which are often made of lead;
- Together with food. Salts of heavy metals, for example, may be contained in bloodworms;
- From filter materials that have become impregnated with metal salts over a long period of operation. From activated carbon that has not undergone the necessary purification. Such carbon is not intended for use in aquarium filters because it contains an excessive concentration of zinc oxide.
The harder the aquarium water (containing bicarbonate and calcium sulfate), the less lead is subject to corrosion. Lead carbonate, poorly soluble in water, and pure lead, in the presence of carbon dioxide in marine aquarium water, interacting with it, forms lead bicarbonate. As a result, in aquariums where CO2 is constantly released by fish or carbon dioxide is forcibly supplied to the water, the process of dissolution of the heavy metal lead occurs continuously.
How to recognize symptoms of metal poisoning in fish
The more different metals are contained in aquarium water, the higher their toxicity level. Different fish species have different susceptibility to such toxins, and it is even different for different individuals of the same species. Heavy metals tend to accumulate in the fish's body. Even if these metals are present in the water in negligible amounts, they enter the vital organs of the fish (bones, muscles, liver, kidneys, gills, nervous system tissues) and disrupt their function.
The symptoms of metal poisoning are similar to the symptoms of general poisoning in fish. In chronic poisoning with heavy metal salts, the production of enzymes important for metabolic processes is inhibited in fish. This fact determines the signs of poisoning that appear in fish.
The fish may change (darken) their coloration and eye color (become cloudy), they suffocate and try to stay at the water surface, move chaotically due to impaired motor coordination, or, in the most severe cases, may lie on the bottom of the aquarium.
Treatment of metal poisoning
If you notice symptoms of metal poisoning in your pets, immediately take the following emergency measures. The first thing to do is to remove the source of toxins from the aquarium. This could be filter media, live food, items you used to decorate the aquarium bottom, etc., as mentioned in the section "Where do metals come from in the aquarium?" Your next action is to replace part of the water or even completely replace it with fresh settled water. Then thoroughly rinse the filter under a stream of hot water. Return healthy fish to their native aquarium, and isolate sick ones in a quarantine tank. The use of special medical preparations for the treatment of metal poisoning contributes to the rapid relief of the condition of sick fish.
If, as a result of your measures, the fish recover, they are unlikely to avoid physiological disorders. They may lose the ability to reproduce or become stunted.
Prevention of metal poisoning
Metal salts can be removed from aquarium water by using the reverse osmosis method. Today, this is the most advanced water purification technology. The method is based on the use of a membrane for purification that has the ability to purify water from almost any impurities. The reverse osmosis membrane effectively separates one component of water from others.
In addition, as a prevention of metal poisoning in fish, special water conditioning products are used. Use copper-containing preparations very carefully. Use only equipment specifically designed for aquariums.
Параметры воды для аквариума